We seem to finally be getting into a rhythm here. I wake up a little earlier, Beth a little later and we spend most of the morning working, blogging and reading. And the sun is out. The SUN! It is 7:30 am and I am sitting out on our front patio this morning, which has a southern exposure. It’s probably 65 degrees and the sun already feels hot. But not too hot. Dozens of chirping birds, an occasional moan from a cow across the street, galloping horse next door, water in the fountain next to me gurgling away. Even better I’m surrounded by geraniums– which I love– and thyme, my favorite herb. Paradise, really.
Our day kicked off yesterday around 10:30 when we set off for the BNP Paribas in Aubusson. Got there around 11:00, went up to the receptionist and explained we were from the US, had bought a house in Feniers and needed to buy insurance and set up a bank account. Her response? Do you have an appointment? What?! LOL. Merde. No I don’t have an appointment. Well, you have to make one to see a banker. Le sigh– fine. And we made an appointment for this afternoon at 2pm.
So, it was 11:15 and too early for lunch. And we had time to kill. Again. So we drove back to Felletin, parked the car and went for a walk. We found a small cooperative art center center and bought the cutest little wool sheep for Olivia, whom we will see on Friday. Then we went into the church which, though it looked like crap from the outside, was probably the nicest we have seen in this area. Lots of enormous paintings and grandiose alters. Stained glass was exceptionally beautiful and there were even vestiges of original murals from hundreds of years ago.
The garden behind the church was beautiful, too. It was a perfect blend of formal and shabby chic– even if it was unintended. Loved it.
A little after noon we walked over to the local auberge: L’Auberge de Felletin it is cleverly named and we proceeded to have a ridiculously gluttonous meal. For just 15 euro. Listen to this.
Lunch started with a delicious chicken rillette and fresh baked bread. Next we were served some perfectly cooked and buttered pasta with a veal/mushroom tomato sauce AND a half a liter of more than passable beaujolais. The veal portions were very generous and we each got a very large tranche. Beth didn’t eat much of that, of course, but it was meltingly tender and I was able to help her out! Next came the cheese plate– a bleu and a farmer’s cheese. Both high quality, cru and delicious. Next came dessert. I had pistachio ice cream and Beth took a creme caramel which she insists is the best dessert she has ever had. Then espressos. For 15 euro! We can’t wait to go back.
After lunch we went to a florist down the street to buy a couple of gifts: one for Madame Regaudie (just because) and one for Nicole and Dominique (our Airbnb hosts who invited us for an apero). We found some beautiful begonias and while the florist turned them into gifts with cellophane and ribbon we talked about the Creuse and Trump. People here are really puzzled by his election and I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard Trump and “catastrophe” in the same sentence. Agreed.
Around 3pm we went to see Madame Regaudie to get the keys to the house. She was very happy to see us and we talked for a little bit before getting the keys and heading across the street to the house. She had fallen the night before and had a very difficult time getting herself back up and to bed. I know she is getting some help– in fact she had a lady there doing some cleaning for her while we were there. And her four daughters are nearby, but, I still worry about her a little bit. I’m looking forward to giving her a hand when she needs one.
When we got inside we opened all of the windows. I’d never seen the house open like that and I loved it even more. Beth took a video of all of the rooms, so we can remember the layout (it’s tricky) and we sketched out a way for us to have a three ensuite rooms for guests while carving out an apartment for us one side of the house. I really liked Beth’s ideas– don’t tell her I said that– and I’m looking forward to getting to work!
After seeing the house again we weren’t ready to go home so we had coffee with Madame Regaudie and talked about this and that. She showed us photos of her husband– it’s obvious she adored him and that he was well-loved. In fact she told us that 104 people sent flowers to the funeral. In a little town of 500 that is amazing.
Afterwards we made the 20 minute trek down to Meymac to kick around. It is such a beautiful town, the prettiest here by far, but it is kind of dead? Quiet to the point of being little creepy! But the bar we’d been in the other day was open, and it was an absolutely beautiful afternoon, so we sat down with a mix of tourists, bikers and locals– all French I might add– and had a beer. The owner recognized us immediately and gave Beth a RAFT of crap about her 5 euro bet on the Mexico vs. Germany match. She had dropped five euro, despite my world class eye rolling, on Mexico to win. And he laughed and laughed and laughed and laughed about it. So that was kind of fun.
We got back to the house at 6:30 and watched the Tour de France recap until 7:30. Then we went around the back of the house for our apero with Dominique and Nicole. We shared a bottle of Cremant du Bourgogne and as expected, it was heavy on the little bites: salmon, pork rilletes, tomatoes, cured sausage and the like. So it was basically dinner.
It was a really pleasant two hours, but speaking French for two hours straight was, frankly, exhausting. I’m not there yet. And it was just as exhausting for Beth to try and keep up. I translated as much as I could and Dominique was able to speak some English, but late in the day it gets really hard to concentrate in a different language and I was happy to roll back to the gite at 9:30.
Hung out, read the news, talked and hit the hay early at 10:30pm. Another great day in La Creuse.
Today we are going to lunch for the “famous” restaurant across the street from us in Feniers. At 2pm we have a meeting with the bank and after that? Who knows!
A demain.
Hotel Féniers 
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